Aryn Henning Nichols

Dyersville Day Trip

If you got in your car, starting at Kenmore Square in Boston, and drove west on Historic Route 20, about halfway across the country you’ll enter the 333 miles that run straight through Iowa. There you’ll find the 9th Street SE exit for Dyersville (watch for the National Farm Toy Museum sign.) 

Although Dyersville, population 4,650, is often referenced alongside a certain famous baseball movie quote, it’s way more than that. It’s a vibrant community of entrepreneurs that are helping this rural town slide into home plate for the next generation. (Oh come on, you didn’t think we’d let it go that easy, did you?!). 

But in all seriousness, the Field of Dreams movie site is absolutely worth a visit. In fact, as this story came together, a massive $80 million development deal has been announced for the site, in addition to an annual MLB game, which is all downright exciting. And of course, you really must take in the history of Fred Ertl Sr at the National Toy Museum as well, founder of Ertl Toys, and much more. 

But if we were to re-write that famous Field of Dreams line, an even better version to describe Dyersville might be, “If She builds it…”.

You see, historically, women entrepreneurs have set the pace in Dyersville – both out of necessity and vision. For over a century, Dyersville was the home to one of HB Glover Companies sewing and manufacturing facilities – providing jobs and careers for women of all ages (yes, mostly women), who were not afraid to stand up for themselves while creating such iconic American brands as Brighton-Carlsbad Sleeping-wear, as well as flannel shirts provided to US troops in World War One. While the Brighton-Carlsbad line was sold by department stores from coast to coast mid-century, the women of HB Glover’s factories organized themselves, and even led the strike of 1916. This strike would later prompt the Richard Bissell novel 7 1/2 Cents, which also led to the smash Broadway Musical The Pajama Game

Textile Brewery utilizes pieces from the building’s history throughout the business. Lighting fixtures, button collections, and old sewing machine parts create interest and tell a story. / Photo by Benji Nichols

The building that housed HB Glover in Dyersville operated in one capacity or another as a sewing factory from 1910 to 2017. After that, the facility was mothballed until entrepreneurs Carol Miller and Tom Olberding saw a vision for turning this rich historical building into a hub for the community – while preserving that history, all through the lens of Craft Beer. Textile Brewing has done just that, even branching off to help develop other creative rehab projects such as the Corner Taproom in Cascade (which also has a Happy Joe’s Pizza Counter in the other half of the building!), and the freshly opened TapHaus in Atkins, just west of Cedar Rapids. 

The Brewery has fully embraced its history, complete with furniture built from original factory pieces and lighting constructed by Dyersville toy designer Chris Huisman of RetroPurposed. The place oozes of modern beers and fantastic history, with informational pieces throughout the taproom. It is also one of the first Gold Certified “Green Breweries” in Iowa, and has a forward vision for utilizing local grains and ingredients in their beers – such as the Re-gen (regenerative) Rye Red, Cascade Blonde, and the Breslau Style Schoeps which features over 70 percent Iowa grown wheat.

Just around the corner on 1st Avenue, Savvy Salvage, a wildly creative upcycling and “junk” business opened in 2010, is run by Heidi Huisman (Chris Huisman’s partner in life and adventures). Heidi’s family lineage in the self-proclaimed “garbage business” led her work in salvage long before it was “chic.” Keep an eye out for Chris’ lighting pieces there, as well as Karri Parrott’s “The Bird’s Nest,” creating one-of-a-kind furniture pieces sealed with Earth Safe Finishes. The store also acts as home base for the “Historic Route 20” Association’s Iowa chapter, with information, souvenirs, and more.

Heidi Huisman organizes at Savvy Salvage, a fun upcycling and “junk” business downtown. / Photo by Benji Nichols

 Across the street at Brew & Brew, Becca Miller and her crew crank out all things homemade and delicious in what has become another hub for the community. After working in the Ag Tech and cattle breeding business, with a degree in Beef Production, Becca, then 24, saw the opportunity to purchase the coffee shop and make a difference in her hometown. So in 2017 she jumped in and never looked back. The business not only survived, but thrived during the pandemic through small town support. Becca continues to show the town love through creative baking, breakfast and lunch menus (try the Acreage Panini!), and custom cookies. 

A view out the window of Brew & Brew, a coffee shop in Dyersville. / Photo by Benji Nichols

And while modern Highway 20 has defined the outskirts of Dyersville, the thriving downtown is still the kind of place one would have found on Historic Route 20 back in the day – where you can buy a new outfit at Jennifer Recker’s J&R Fashions, pick up a new pair of shoes at Reicher’s, and meet up for a quick meal at the Palace Saloon, Chad’s Pizza, or Abby Sejdini’s freshly modernized Dyersville Family Restaurant – all within about two blocks. In fact, right on the 200 block is Keri Knipper’s just-remodeled Uptown Hair – in a building that has served as a barber shop or salon for more than 120 years. 

Beyond the physical investments, Dyersville is also making good on giving young people, and those with “young” ideas chances to shine. The sum of these efforts is not only helping Dyersville succeed in rural Iowa, but also helping show young adults that the town is actually a great place to live. Take social artist Ashley Althoff, an Eastern Iowa native, who attended Upper Iowa University, but saw the chance to put her graphic design and art skills to work in the place she grew up. From an Americorps project that kept her local, she quickly became engaged in projects and jobs with Elkader’s Art in the Park, the Clayton County Energy District, and telling the story of Textile Brewing as marketing manager. This is the type of creative work that can keep young, engaged Iowans plugged into their rural communities, while making real impact. 

The town has rallied to help foster the self-employed and those chasing their ideas. The Dyersville Innovation Lab is a collaborative project of the Rural Ideas Network, Dyersville Economic Development, Chamber of Commerce, Community Foundation, Dubuque County, and Dupaco Credit Union. The Lab hosts co-working space, business coaching, roundtables, and more. They are now one of five locations featuring the Innovation Lab model, including one in Northeast Iowa, Lansing Office Works, opened in 2021 (read about that facility on pg 24 of the Summer 2022 Inspire(d) Magazine).

So as the seasons bring in “baseball weather” – keep Dyersville in mind for a perfect road trip. It’s true, the 1989 hit film Field of Dreams helped put Dyersville on the modern Iowa map, and will inevitably continue to bring the fans – but we’d argue that it’s the dynamic, often female lead folks of Dyersville who continue to make it special. And no, this is not heaven…. It’s Iowa, and there’s really good beer too. 

Benji Nichols is a bi-coastal, Iowa Boomerang (BIB? Is that a thing?). He loves getting to help tell the stories of our region – and has also started a new podcast – Rhymes With Decorah. Check it out online at: decorah.fun 

Going on a Dyersville Day Trip?

Check out dyersville.org before you go, and put these fun spots on your to-do list!

Field of Dreams Movie Site

Filmed on the Kinsella Family Farm, visit the place that helped the rest of the world understand that this is heaven. fieldofdreamsmoviesite.com

National Farm Toy Museum / Photos by Benji Nichols

National Farm Toy Museum

What Iowa kid’s upbringing would be complete without the innovations of Fred Ertl Sr? A union journeyman mold maker and Steward at the Adams Company in Dubuque, Ertl began making toy tractors in the 1940s from his basement furnace using sand from the river and used airplane pistons while the company went on strike, and through pioneering licensing work built a die-cast toy empire. The Museum tells Ertl’s story, and many more, and also hosts the National Farm Toy Show the first week of June in Dyersville. Explore thousands of tractors and farm toys, as well as the incredible work of wooden toy creator Bernie Kluesner, 100 years of John Deere through Farm Toys, and more. www.nationalfarmtoymuseum.com

Basilica of St. Francis Xavier / Photo by Benji Nichols

Basilica of St. Francis Xavier

Shining out 200 feet over Dyersville, the twin spires of the Basilica of St. Francis Xavier mark the tenacity of founding German immigrants to Dyersville. Since 1889, this Catholic Church has served thousands of parishioners, having been bestowed the “Basilica” title (one of 53 in the US) by His Holiness Pope Pius XII. Check it out, just at the edge of the downtown district on 3rd Street SW. piresoffaith.com

Textile Brewing Company 

Textile Brewery marries modern and historical inside and out. / Photo by Ashley Althoff

Fun, beautifully restored, environmentally conscious brewery in an old sewing factory! Come for the beer, stay for the giant Bavarian pretzels, and don’t miss the historic displays all around the taproom. Dog friendly seasonal biergarten – tell them Inspire(d) sent you! textilebrews.com

Brew & Brew

Local Coffee, breakfast, and lunch shop. Don’t miss the beautiful cookies that owner Becca Miller decorates in her “spare time” – the treats, sandwiches, salads, and coffee are all just exactly what you need. brewandbrewdyersville.com

Savvy Salvage 

We love this super fun “junk” shop! Owner Heidi Huisman is an artist, curates beautiful pieces in her shop, and is a treasure herself. This shop also acts as the HQ for Iowa’s “Historic Route 20” representation. Don’t miss it! savvysalvageiowa.com

TOMY Factory Store

Through a series of conglomerations and sales, the TOMY Company now owns Ertl Toys, amongst many other brands you’d recognize. The Factory store is a fun spot to make a quick shopping stop. Check out “TOMY Outlet Store” on Facebook.

O So Good Winery 

Just on the Southwest side of Dyersville – this Iowa Winery offers up a great variety of wines spanning a wide pallet of styles and flavors. Occasional music, fun atmosphere, and Chad’s Pizza make for a nice stop. osogoodwinery.com

Dyer-Botsford House 

Built by the founder of Dyersville, James Dyer. The House is now a museum featuring artifacts, displays, and beautiful antiques, including over 2,000 dolls! dyersvillehistory.com

FUSE 

Dyersville, Sports Bar, Wine Lounge housed in 100 year old hotel and former industrial space. Opened in March 2022 by Tara Rahe with the intention of helping fuse the new and old sides of Dyersville. fusedyersville.com

Heritage Trail

Take a ride on this 30-mile route to explore the Upper Midwest’s most scenic all-season trail from Dyersville to Dubuque. Follow the path of a once bustling railroad into a 450-foot deep valley, past old mining and mill towns. Discover the rugged beauty that welcomes thousands of bicyclists and hikers each year. www.cityofdyersville.com/315

Day Trip Add-ons:

This mural is by Ashley Althoff at the Corner Taproom in Cascade. / Photo by Benji Nichols

From the north – Take backroads to the Hill Country Convenience Store and Every’s Auto & Tire in Colesburg. It might be one of the best examples of small town resourcefulness in Eastern Iowa.

Worth the extra 15 miles – Drive to Cascade, Iowa (pop, 2100) to check out the Corner Tap (Craft Beer Bar) and connected Happy Joe’s Pizza. If this isn’t a grown-up-Iowa-kid’s dream, nothing is. The project was actually a collaboration between three businesses, the City of Cascade, and the State, and it is a beacon of what small town redevelopment can look like.  Hot tip – Cheryl’s Flour Garden Bakery is across the street and also worth the trip (but only open until 2pm!). 

Fireflies: The Little Lights of Summer

During warm summer evenings, as the sun tumbles and stars rise from their daytime slumber, a lightshow below the horizon unfolds. A single spark, then two, herald the performance. Within minutes, the flickers crescendo. As owls and bats begin nocturnal rituals, fireflies emerge by the hundreds to dance brightly, silently punctuating the darkness with tiny sparks. Bioluminescence – the production of light by living creatures – adds a tincture of magic to our backyards.

The ability to generate and emit light is widespread in nature, particularly in marine realms. Plankton, jellyfish, and even fish dwelling in the stygian darkness of deep oceans, blink, flicker, and glow. 

On dry land, fireflies send bright pulses of biological morse code skyward. The purpose of bioluminescence varies by species. For some, it advertises unpalatability – “I’m bitter, don’t eat me.” For others, like deep sea fish, glowing appendages lure unsuspecting prey toward jaws filled with sharp teeth. Fireflies, on the other hand, use light as the language of love, a seductive semaphore intended to attract mates. 

Firefly dance
Firefly Dance / Artwork by Mary Thompson

Fireflies are classified as beetles. Numbering more than 400,000 species (and counting!), beetles comprise almost 25 percent of all known organisms on Earth. Of that total, 2000 species are fireflies. Distributed across the planet, they burn brightly on every continent except Antarctica. Closer to home, more than 100 species inhabit North America, most found east of the Mississippi River. 

Life is not always glamorous for these six-legged luminaries. They begin as tiny eggs deposited in damp mulch or leaf litter. After hatching, larvae live a subterranean existence, voraciously hunting slugs, snails, and earthworms. Depending on the species, up to two years is spent in the root zone. Larval fireflies, like their adult counterparts, are bioluminescent and often referred to as glow worms.

Adult life is short and to the point – mate and expire. In what may be the best example of an insect dating app, males fly slowly over fields and woodland edges while emitting brief flashes of light to attract females. The flash pattern varies by species. Females, ever cautious, watch while concealed in vegetation. When Mr. Bright flies by, a receptive female flashes her interest. After a brief exchange of wattage to seal the deal, mating ensues, eggs are laid, and the cycle begins anew.

Frog and fireflies
Fireflies & Frog / Artwork by Mary Thompson

Unfortunately, firefly populations are blinking out. Habitat loss, pesticides, and light pollution that interfere with mating are conspiring to drive their numbers down. Losing the little lights of summer is unthinkable. 

Thankfully, we can take action to help our flickering friends. Here’s how:

• Create firefly homes by planting beautiful gardens filled with native plants.

• Leave the leaves and let logs rot. Both provide important habitat for larval fireflies. Remember – they eat pesky slugs and snails.

• Make the Driftless dark by turning off outside lights. Motion detectors can address safety concerns.

• Stop mowing all that lawn. Let some revert to habitat for fireflies and other wildlife.

• Refrain from using lawn chemicals.

Lightening bugs are an iconic part of our natural heritage. By taking a few simple steps, we can ensure their enchanting backyard lightshows burn brightly for future generations.

Mary Thompson has degrees in Fine Arts and Education. She has delighted in the creative arts since her first box of crayons. She considers a lawn chair, lemonade, and lightning bugs to be the perfect summer trifecta. She teaches art lessons to adventurous adults using a variety of media. 

Craig Thompson is a professional biologist with a penchant for birds dating back to a time when gas was $0.86 cents a gallon. Some day he hopes to be as bright as his backyard fireflies.

Starlite 14 Drive-In

As the drive-in movie theatre nears its 90th anniversary, just over 300 outdoor theatres remain in the US – and only a few continue to greet carloads of moviegoers in the Driftless. One, the Starlite 14 Drive-In in Richland Center, Wisconsin, has endured through historical drama, land disputes, and digital upgrades.

Old newspaper clippings show a handful of movies from the past at both the indoor and outdoor theatres in Richland Center. / Photos courtesy Cindy Herbeck: “After my dad saw Smokey and the Bandit, he went out and bought a brand new black 1977 Trans Am with the eagle on it, just like the one in the show,” she says on Facebook.

Auto parts professional Richard Hollingshead opened the very first American drive-in theatre in Camden, New Jersey, in 1933. His mother had complained about the uncomfortable wooden indoor theatre seats of the day. He wondered: What if you could enjoy the big screen from the comfort of your personal automobile?    

This idea changed moviegoing forever. 

In the 1950s and 60s, as American car culture took hold, over 5,000 drive-in movie theatres were built nationwide. It was the affordable option for families to attend the movies and the perfect way for teens and young adults to explore their newfound freedoms within the privacy of the automobile. 

But as moviegoing options of the 1970s through 2000s evolved – through VHS, DVDs, and home streaming services – the drive-in’s popularity waned. The Starlite 14, though, managed to hang on through the decades.

“No matter what comes along, the theatre always comes back,” says longtime Starlite 14 Drive-In owner, turned-employee, Bill Muth. Bill “caught the bug” in 1974 after he started working as a projectionist at the Starlite 14. “Once I got hooked,” he says, “it was hard to get away.”

In 1988, Bill and his wife, Lisa, purchased Richland Center’s downtown indoor theatre, the Center Theatre, and the Starlite 14 Drive-In as a package deal. “The money you made at the drive-in in the summer paid for heating the Center Theatre during the winter,” he explains. “Basically, I had two full-time jobs. While the theatres always did pay for themselves, I worked at Rockwell Automation for 43 years at the same time.” 

And when you own a popular regional – and seasonal – tourist attraction, it’s hard to get away with your own family for a break. “Every summer we’d get 20 to 25 different state license plates on cars coming through,” Bill says with pride. “But we only took two family vacations in the 31 years we owned the theatres!”

In 2019, Bill and Lisa finally took a much-deserved retirement and listed the Center and Starlite 14 theatres for sale – more on that soon. First, let’s dive into the history of these two Richland Center, Wisconsin theatres; It provides enough drama to script a drive-in double feature!

The Center Theatre opened March 4, 1937 as the Eskin Theatre. It was designed and built by Sarah and Jacob Eskin, who’d previously purchased another downtown theatre in Richland Center after relocating from Milwaukee. The couple divorced that same year, and Sarah received the two theatres as part of the settlement.

The Eskin Theatre, designed by Sarah and Jacob Eskin, opened in Richland Center in the late 1930s. / Photo courtesy Richland County History Room

Local lore suggests Jacob granted Sarah the theatres as an attempt to overwhelm her rather than as an equal splitting of assets. Their marriage was by all accounts a tumultuous one and Sarah was granted the divorce on the grounds of cruelty. Yet, Sarah did well in the theatre business and acquired land east of Richland Center to build the area’s first drive-in. 

In a deed signed August 28, 1951, Sarah was granted a lifetime lease on a 20-acre parcel of a family dairy farm for $15,000. The Hi-Way 14 Outdoor Theater opened on May 6, 1952. Sadly, the following year Sarah passed away in her home after working one Friday evening at her drive-in.

So what would happen to her drive-in? One of the most fascinating parts of the history is that 1951 deed. It states that the land must be forever used as a drive-in theatre. If it ever ceased to be used for this purpose, the title would revert to the grantor, his heirs, or assigns. These unique terms manufactured many courtroom dramas and periods of suspense after Sarah’s death.

The Supreme Court of Wisconsin heard multiple cases against her estate to challenge and re-interpret the terms of the lifetime lease. Yet, the drive-in operates today on those original 20 acres. Elsewhere in the Midwest, drive-in theatres succumbed to a major development boom in the 1990s and 2000s. Those former theatres became tract homes and sites for big box retailers, such as Walmart. 

The Starlite 14 at sunset. / Photo courtesy Starlite 14

Over the years, the Richland Center drive-in evolved alongside technology and its community, including a name change – Hi-way 14 became Starlite 14 – in the late 1970s. And in 2013-2014, during the national industry-wide conversion from 35mm film to expensive new digital projection, Bill and Lisa poured their hearts and finances into keeping both the indoor and outdoor community screens from going dark. Many small theatres couldn’t afford the transition.

Richland Center resident, Sheila Troxel, remembers, “We all knew what a vital part the theatres were in our community. That’s why when Bill and Lisa needed to modernize projection, we all came together.”

In a collective show of support, 80 community members each loaned the theatres $1000 in a zero-interest contract with Bill and Lisa to cover the roughly $80,000 digital conversion costs for the two theatres. 

“Quite honestly, at that time, we felt it was something we’d never get paid back, but we weren’t doing it for that reason,” Sheila says. “But, sure enough they were able to raise the money and slowly one-by-one pay everyone back.”

The drive-in was saved, again – for a time.

Remember, in 2019, after the successful effort to upgrade and save the theatres, Bill and Lisa were ready to retire. They listed the Starlite Drive-In business and the Center Theatre for sale, yet the enduring terms of the drive-in’s lifetime land lease meant that if the theatres did not sell and reopen within the year, the drive-in would be lost forever. 

Drive-ins and pop-up theatres became popular again during the pandemic. Writer Erin Dobin organized this one before that, though, in 2013 in Milwaukee, WI. / Photo by Erin Dorbin

Enter Richland Center natives Holly and Tony Johnson and their friend Brent Montry. They purchased the two theatres in 2020 ahead of an unexpected national drive-in theatre revival.

During the pandemic, pop-up drive-ins popped up everywhere, from big city rooftops to parking lots to private backyards. In fact, the same Walmart stores that developed former Midwestern drive-in theatre land were now opening their own pop-up drive-in movie theatres in their large parking lots! The drive-in had come full circle.

Sheila praises the new ownership team for thinking outside the box. “They were so supportive of all of the other community businesses and events that were also struggling and they asked, ‘How can we help?’” 

During the height of the pandemic, Starlite 14 hosted events that couldn’t be held elsewhere indoors – everything from dance recitals to farming events. They even erected a permanent stage for performances below the movie screen. 

“We don’t see ourselves as owners, we see ourselves as stewards,” says co-owner Tony Johnson.

The Starlite 14 marquee displays an upcoming movie & Starlite Market in May 2022. / Photo courtesy Starlite 14

In a recent radio interview, Richland Center’s director of tourism, Marty Richards, reveals he “did a little jig” when Tony, Holly, and Brent purchased the theatres. He just knew they’d bring new ideas and innovation to the format. 

Just shy of their second year of stewardship, the Starlite 14 and the Center Theatre were named 2022’s Businesses of the Year by Richland Rejuvenates, a local booster group. 

“I think they’ve taken the drive-in to a whole new level,” confirms Sheila. 

New programs at the Starlite 14 include live performances, livestreamed concerts, and a Saturday Starlite Market running May 14 through October 29. The Market is open to all vendors and will include food trucks and other local goods. 

“In a small town we can complain about what we don’t have, but we should celebrate what we do have,” Tony says.

Ask Tony about his earliest memories at the Starlite 14 and he’ll tell you about the time he got ejected from the drive-in as a rowdy teen. “I got kicked out by Bill!” he remembers, laughing.

All is forgiven and Bill remains hooked by the drive-in, even in retirement. He stays busy working maintenance and greeting neighbors, friends, and first-timers at the ticket booth. The ticket booth is Tony’s favorite spot, too. “It’s like being the bartender at Cheers!”

Erin saw her first movie at the drive-in in 1997. She caught the theatre bug and traveled to photograph every remaining drive-in she possibly could. In 2008, she was hired to document the theatres of the Erie Canalway in New York state where she snapped this polaroid of Midway Drive-In Theatre in Oswego, NY. She calls Houston, MN home.

Driftless Drive-In summer!

 Starlite 14 Drive-In, U.S. Highway 14, Richland

Center, WI. Want to participate in the Starlite Market? Contact Tony Johnson at trieliteholding@gmail.com. Have another idea? “We’re open to anything!” Tony says. Track upcoming movies and more at richlandmovies.com and www.facebook.com/starlite14drivein

Big Sky Twin Drive-In, N9199 Winnebago Rd, Wisconsin Dells, WI

Get the latest at www.bigskydrivein.com

Highway 61 Drive-In, 1228 US-61, Delmar, IA. Just south of Maquoketa, IA. Dennis Voy celebrates his 50th year of ownership in 2022! Stay up-to-date at 61-driveintheatre.com