Inspired Media

Photo by Lauren Kraus

By Aryn Henning Nichols

Soaring bluffs, craggy rocks, open fields, and mossy trails… yes, the Driftless Region is an amazing place for a nice, long hike. Or even a quick walk!

There are tons of wonderful trails – both rugged and groomed – in Northeast Iowa, Southeast Minnesota, and Southwest Wisconsin. Inspire(d) has featured a good number of them through a series by former contributor Lauren Kraus (see below for the list), but we felt it was about time to talk the walk (pun!) again.

Inspired by the (relatively) new Driftless Area Hikers Club, we decided to catch up with club leader, Peg Matter, to get some hiking tips and new trail ideas. Matter, former co-owner of Decorah Hatchery, was off on the Superior Hiking Trail on Minnesota’s North Shore as we were going to press, so good thing for the Internet!

The Driftless Area Hikers Club was founded by the Decorah Hatchery, and hikes are generally led by Matter. Each month, the club does one full day, 8 to 12-mile-hike in the Driftless Region, and also one half-day, 5-mile hike in the Decorah area. There is also a walking group that meets in Decorah in the parking lot across from the Dunning Springs’ entrance every Tuesday at 5:15 pm for an hour-long walk in the woods. Find details at www.facebook.com/driftlesshikers or by inquiring at Decorah Hatchery (www.decorahhatchery.com).

Plus, more good news: Waking is not only good for your body; it’s good for your mind as well. A recent Stanford study found that walking increases your creativity by an average of 60 percent! As Henry David Thoreau says, “The moment my legs begin to move, my thoughts begin to flow.”

Do you have a favorite trail in the Driftless Region you think we should feature? Let us know! Email aryn [at] iloveinspired.com with your ideas. Thanks!

Photo courtesy Peg Matter

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Interview with Driftless Area Hikers Club leader, Peg Matter

Do you have any favorite trails in the area that we haven’t covered yet?

City, county, and state parks provide beautiful, well-groomed hiking trails in the Driftless Region. We even have a national park in Iowa – Effigy Mounds National Park – with plenty of hiking trails, Mississippi river overlooks, and of course effigy mounds that are thousands of years old. There is a great museum and kids can spend the day earning a junior ranger badge.

At Pikes Peak State Park (Iowa) you can see the Wisconsin River entering into the Mississippi along with the limestone bluffs you expect in the region. There is a mature maple forest providing shade on hot summer days and beautiful fall colors later in the season. There are enough hiking trails that you can do an all day loop or head out for just a couple hours.

Backbone State park was Iowa’s first state park and is at the southwestern limits of the Driftless area. You will find a backbone of bedrock jutting out over the Maquoketa River. The river is dammed, providing a lake with a swimming beach or you can kayak around the lake and then up the river a good distance before returning downstream to the lake. There are 21 miles of trail going by springs, caves, sinkholes and karst topography. The East Lake trail and Backbone are not to be missed.

Photos courtesy Peg Matter

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Details:

Pike’s Peak State Park
McGregor, Iowa

Of special note: There are fossil remains including brachiopods, gastropods and cephalopods, and the trail goes past Bridal Veil Falls, a beautiful (and cool in the summer) spring. Note there is road construction heading into the park through the end of July, 2015

Backbone State Park,
Between Strawberry Point and Dundee, Iowa

Of special note: There are exclusive trails for snowmobiling and /or cross-country skiing in the winter, and also mountain biking trails: Barred Owl, Bluebird, East Lake, and West Lake. Plus, there are opportunities to rock climb here! The most popular climbing spots are located near Backbone Trail. Climbers must register at the park office.
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What do you need to head out on the trail?

Basics for heading into the woods – other than the all important water – are sun protection (hat, lotion, sun glasses), extra layer (rain coat), first aid supplies, illumination (headlamp or flashlight), and insect repellent. You can spray your feet and socks with insect repellent before heading into a tick area.

If you’re heading out for a longer hike it is important to have a map. Many parks have maps of their trails on line that you can print off before leaving home. Otherwise if there is a map posted at the trailhead, take of picture of it with your phone so that you will have something to refer back to. Learn more about other helpful items by researching the Ten Essentials for hiking (see below for details).

Are there any extra tips you’ve gathered over your years of hiking?

Knowing your plants and animals will enhance your hiking experience. Additionally it’s good to be able to recognize poison ivy, to know which wild parsnip causes a reaction, and to study up on deer ticks to reduce the fear factor. Consider yourself lucky if you ever see a rattlesnake!

Remember the Leave No Trace principle: You carry it in, you carry it out – that means apple cores and orange peels too, so bring a little plastic bag.

What do you think is the best part about hiking?

Hiking is a great way to spend time with friends and family, appreciating the beauty of our parks and feeling good after a nice long walk. The solitude of a walk in the woods is restorative also, just be sure to let someone know that you’re headed out – or sign in at the register box by the trailhead if they have one.

Photo by Lauren Kraus

TEN ESSENTIALS:

The original Ten Essentials list was assembled in the 1930s by The Mountaineers, a Seattle-based organization for climbers and outdoor adventurers, to help people be prepared for emergency situations in the outdoors. In 2003, the group updated the list to a “systems” approach rather than listing individual items (for example, map and compass now fall into the Navigation “system”.)

Updated Ten Essential “Systems”

1. Navigation (map and compass)
2. Sun protection (sunglasses and sunscreen)
3. Insulation (extra clothing)
4. Illumination (headlamp/flashlight)
5. First-aid supplies
6. Fire (waterproof matches/lighter/candles)
7. Repair kit and tools
8. Nutrition (extra food)
9. Hydration (extra water)
10. Emergency shelter

Check other features highlighting the Driftless Region!

Decorah Area Trails: Twin Springs, Upper Ice Cave Hill in Dunning’s Spring Park, and Van Peenen Park

Trails north of Decorah: Pine Bluff and Coon Creek

The Backwoods of Winneshiek County: Bear Creek and Pine Creek Areas

Falcon Springs State Wildlife Area and Lionberger Environmental Preserve

Trails at Lake Meyer (Calmar, Iowa) + Mother’s Day Trail in Decorah

Southeast Minnesota: Root River State Trail and Harmony-Preston Valley State Trail

Effigy Mounds National Monument (NE Iowa)

Kickapoo Valley Reserve (SW Wisconsin)

 

By Benji Nichols • Originally published in the Summer 2014 Inspired

There are a ton of great spots to check out in the Driftless Region – from museums to landmarks to educational centers and more. Some of them are well known, some of them not, but all of them are worth the trip. We’ve put together a list of five we think you should really get to know if you haven’t already. Happy adventuring!

Porter House
401 W. Broadway, Decorah, Iowa
www.porterhousemuseum.org

Rocks, bugs, and beauty.

Porter House is not just another pretty house in the Historic District of Decorah. Don’t get us wrong – it is a pretty house in the Historic District of Decorah. But inside, you’ll find all sorts of treasures and tales that transport you to another time…almost another world… the world of the Porters.

Hometown boy Adelbert “Bert” Field Porter (1879 – 1968) grew up across the street from Grace Young Porter (1880 – 1964). While he attended boarding schools during the school year, summers were spent in Decorah with his grandparents. Childhood play dates grew into real dates, and the Grace and Bert married in 1904. Having come from wealthy families, Bert and Grace were free to spend their lives together chasing adventures, creating amazing collections, and exploring history, culture, nature, and art.

Known as a “gentleman naturalist,” Bert was a professional collector, gathering butterflies, rocks, and other curiosities from far-flung locales. Grace accompanied him on many, but not all, of his travels that varied in length from weeks to months and always producing crates and boxes of found items along the way.

Thus, the Porter House, an1867 Italianate villa, has become a character in and of itself.

Outside, the unique grotto-style 1940s rock wall is built with stones from around the world – each one is unique and gorgeous – and compliment the extensive gardens with beautiful plantings and small pond.

Up the gorgeous 1890s wrap-around Queen Anne porch and inside the house, displays range from Grace’s beautiful crochet work to Bert’s truly astounding collection of bugs and butterflies to photographs of the Porter’s wild adventures (hitching along with scientists in South America, for instance). The museum proves interesting for a quick tour, as well as deeper return visits to really get a feel for how astounding the Porter’s travels were for their generation.

“The furnishings show the continual habitation of a family, items acquired and collected over decades of travel and living from the late Victorian era up through the early 20th century,” says Emily Mineart, Consulting Curator/Collections Manager of the museum. “The same house museum displays superb architectural detail, elegant Victorian garments and furnishings, taxidermy bats and caimen, pre-1940s international photographs, Chinese foot-binding shoes, and vast collections of butterfly folk art!”

A unique annual event, the Porter House Garden Party Fundraiser, is planned for Saturday, June 11 (2016), 4:30 to 6:30 pm at the Porter House to help raise funds for ongoing projects. A silent auction of goods and services featuring artistry, history, natural beauty, and great experiences will be offered. All proceeds from the silent auction will go toward the preservation of the museum house and collections. Refreshments will be served on the beautiful Porter House grounds, amidst the gardens, historic porches, and fascinating rock wall. http://www.porterhousemuseum.org/

Iowa Whitewater Parks

Charles City White Water Park, Charles City, IA
Downtown Charles City
ccwhitewater.com

Elkader Whitewater Park
Downtown Elkader, Iowa
www.elkader-iowa.com/whitewater.html

Manchester Whitewater Park
Downtown Manchester
www.manchesterwhitewater.com

Whitewater and Iowa. It’s a real thing!

Charles City, Iowa, has brought a flood of new interest to their community by rebuilding a river that would sometimes do just that – flood.

The town of 7600 has always been charming, but the new Whitewater at Riverfront Park project has brought a whole new level of tourism to the forefront. Completed in 2013, the project is the real deal. Designed by Recreation Engineering and Planning (REP) from Boulder, Colorado, the Charles City course encompasses 11 acres of water with three world-class whitewater features rated at Class II and III, depending on water levels – Dam Drop, Docs Drop, and Exit Exam. The white water features are designed with freestyle, surfing, spins, and “rodeo” style kayaking, with some level of previous experience being advisable. Outside of the features, the area is also good for tubing, canoeing, and fishing. The surrounding Riverfront Park includes 23 acres of land featuring a handicap accessible boat launch, disc golf course, natural play area, amphitheater, storm water fountain, labyrinth, and access to the community’s more than five miles of recreational trails. www.ccwhitewater.com

The 2016 Charles City Challenge Whitewater kayaking event will take place June 18. Check it out here.

Meanwhile, just over in Elkader, the city’s Whitewater Park park is made up of three components – The Gobbler Wave, Boulder Island, and Fish/Canoe Passage. The white water wave components allow for fun playboat and stand-up paddle surfing, flat spins, and freestyle moves. The Passage allows fish to pass upstream and canoes to pass downstream, while also allowing a great starting point for beginners. www.elkader-iowa.com/whitewater.html

And don’t miss Iowa’s newest (and perhaps largest?) whitewater park in Manchester! The Maquoketa provides 6 drops over 800 feet below the Marion Street Dam, including great playboating features and accesible shoreline. More info at www.manchesterwhitewater.com.

The 2016 ‘Let it Flow’ Riverfest will take place in Manchester June 18, with demos, events, and a special evening concert by Dave Zollo and the Body Electric. Check it all out here.

Note: The sport of whitewater paddling has been growing intensely over the past few years, and while most play areas in these projects can be navigated around easily, the idea of whitewater kayaking is a bit different from the standard canoe or kayak river drifting that many enjoy in the Driftless Region. White water kayaks are often shorter and easier to maneuver in fast water, and include a sprayskirt to keep water out – helmets, PFDs, and special skills are necessary to jump into the sport. Check out either of the above websites for more information, opportunities, and events that will help you get your feet wet!

Iowa Dairy Center
NICC Campus, Calmar, IA
1527 Hwy 150 South, Calmar, Iowa 52132
www.iowadairycenter.com

Wanna go see some cows? Yep. We thought you did.

You better get on over to Iowa’s Dairy Center in Calmar, Iowa. You’ll not only see cows, but a world-class robotic milking facility. Seriously, guys, get a mooove on (groan). Showing the kids, or that farm-sheltered friend, how a dairy facility works is a perfect field trip for our corner of the world.

A project of NICC and the Northeast Iowa Dairy Foundation, the center includes an educational facility with classrooms and labs, a milking parlor, free-stall barn, and calf barn. The partnership with the Northeast Iowa Community College also allows students enrolled in the dairy program to experience hands-on curriculum by working with the center’s dairy herd.

A unique double-eight milking parlor is featured at the Center – complete with a viewing platform that allows visitors to watch the process of cows being milked (open anytime!). This automated milking system demonstrates both herringbone and parallel parlor styles side-by-side, making it the only dairy educational facility of its kind – most likely anywhere! There are exhibits too, like the Hall of Breeds with its life-sized pictures and info on different milk cows. Milkings are done three times daily: 4 am, 12 pm and 8 pm.

A great time to check it all out is when the center hosts its annual “Breakfast on The Farm” June 18, 2016 from 8:30 am to 12pm. Or, to schedule a tour, call Megan at 563-534-9957 ext 107. www.iowadairycenter.com

Villa Louis
521 N Villa Louis Rd, Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin
608-326-2721
villalouis.wisconsinhistory.org

Summer time is the perfect time to imagine what it was like in the good ‘ol days. Windows open, lemonade on the table, lounging on the veranda as the world seems to slow on down. A trip to Villa Louis in Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, can bring this sweet little daydream to life.

The immaculate house and grounds were first conceived by Hercules Louis Dousman (1800 – 1868) after he had acquired a large fortune through his enterprises as a fur trader, lumberman, land speculator, and frontier entrepreneur. In the mid-1840s the Dousman family began developing an estate on the banks of the Mississippi River at Prairie du Chien that would eventually evolve into the Villa Louis. Its vibrant hues and rich textures reflected the family’s rise to wealth and leisure living. Throughout its evolution the property always maintained its elegant and stylish Victorian country home aesthetic, and much attention was paid to the grounds surrounding the mansion and outbuildings.

In the 1930s, mindful of their family’s important place in Wisconsin history, Virginia Dousman Bigelow and Violet Dousman Young – granddaughters of fur trader Hercules Dousman – undertook a restoration of Villa Louis. In 1935 they turned the property over to the city of Prairie du Chien and the Wisconsin Historical Society for operation as a house museum. In the midst of the Great Depression, operating a museum far from the Society’s Madison headquarters seemed a risky venture, so the Society declined the offer. A decade later the family renewed the offer, and in April 1952 Villa Louis opened to the public.

The Dousman heirs also donated a large collection of furnishings and accessories original to the house as well as thousands of letters, business records, photographs and other archival documents.

Villa Louis offers daily tours of the house and property, in addition to fantastic special classes and experiences like Breakfast in a Victorian Kitchen, Come Fly a Kite at Villa Louis, a special Behind the Scenes tour, Kids in a Victorian Kitchen, and more. Call ahead or check the web for full details and deadlines on special offerings.

The museum operates May through early November with tours 10am to 4pm. Additional information and year-round visiting information available by calling 608-326-2721.

For an added adventure bonus this summer, check out the Wisconsin Historical Societies “Family Passport” which offers unlimited admission to 12 awesome history-filled Wisconsin destinations, including the Villa Louis, for just $80.www.wisconsinhistory.org

Forestville / Mystery Cave State Park
21071 County 118 Preston, Minnesota
Main Park: 507-352-5111

• MN Historical Society Site for Historic Forestville
• Official MN DNR Site for both Forestville and Mystery Cave

In the early 1850s, two entrepreneurial gents bargained for a section of land near the Root River known as “Watertown”, between Spring Valley and Preston, Minnesota. A double pen log general store was constructed, supplying pioneers in the southern part of the Minnesota Territory. This was the start of Forestville. A rural village supplying to settlers at its peak, Forestville had a general store, school, brickyard, two hotels, two saw mills, a cabinet shop, gristmill, blacksmith shop, and post office. But with the routing of Southern Minnesota Railroad away from the town in 1868, the town slowly drifted into decline. By 1899, the businesses left were all owned by Thomas Meighen, son of one of the original general store founders. By 1910 the town was all but abandoned, left to fall by the boom and bust wayside of settler history.

If this all sounds like a grand “Little House on the Prairie” adventure, you are in luck! In 1949, Forestville State Park was created, and later the Minnesota Historical Society was entrusted with Forestville and now operates the site in full nineteenth-century appearance (1899, to be exact…).

Several ongoing programs are presented by costumed docents throughout the May-through-October season. Programs include: Bread Making Day, From the Churn – butter making!, 1899 Independence Day Celebration (July 4), Pickling, Drying and Sugaring, By the Light of the Lantern, Apple Cider Pressing, and Apple Butter Day. You can check out all the schedules and fun here.

Admission to historic Forestville is $7 for adults, $6 for seniors and college students, $5 for children 6-17, and free for 5 and under. The park is open Thursday through Sunday, Memorial Day to Labor Day, with additional Saturdays through October.

Also located at the State park is Mystery Cave, the longest public cave in the state. Added to the park in 1987, admission and entrances to the cave are separate from Historic Forestville.

Benji Nichols thinks that five is just a nice number – and merely just scratches the surface to all of the amazing Driftless destinations for lovely summer days. Get out there… 

Photo by Kat Busse

Have you visited the Driftless Area Wetlands Centre in Marquette, Iowa, yet? It opened its doors in August 2013 with one goal in mind – to connect people of all ages to the natural world and empower them to positively impact their local environments. We say, “Mission accomplished,” ‘cause this place is awesome!

By Sara Friedl-Putnam

“What kind of bird is that?”

“Why is it sitting on those rocks?”

“Are there a lot of others like it around here?”

After (almost) stumbling upon a white-bellied, brown-winged bird and its nest, three inquisitive young boys – busy planting purple coneflowers during a native plants restoration event – excitedly fire questions at Katrina Moyna, the gung-ho director of the Driftless Area Wetlands Centre (DAWC).

All photos by Sara Friedl-Putnam unless noted

“It’s a killdeer,” Moyna replies softly to the first question, motioning the boys to back away from the nest. She answers the second just as succinctly: “Those aren’t rocks – they’re eggs.” The answer to the third question, however, will have to wait – the killdeer (or charadrius vociferous), resting comfortably just moments before, has suddenly broken into a dramatic, attention-grabbing “broken-wing act” to lure the boys, whom it views as predators, away from its nest.

It’s a spectacular display of the spontaneity of nature. It’s also a prime example of the experiential – and occasionally accidental – learning that regularly transpires at the Driftless Area Wetlands Centre, an environmental education and community center established in 2013.

“Our mission is to get people of all ages to unplug and experience the outdoors,” says Moyna, an Elkader, Iowa, native. “Everyone, regardless of age or background, can reap the benefits of connecting with – and learning from – the natural world, especially in a place as breathtakingly beautiful and biologically and geologically rich as the Driftless Area.”

That was exactly the message a committed group of citizen volunteers successfully conveyed to members of the Iowa Great Places Board in 2008, the year the board awarded the neighboring Mississippi River towns of Marquette and McGregor a “Great Place” designation and a $325,000 grant to build DAWC, develop the surrounding area (including a man-made wetland and restored prairie), and construct the McGregor-Marquette Center for the Arts.

By 2011 the two communities had secured the funding needed to break ground on a three-acre site just a half-mile from the Mighty Mississippi. (Bright-colored railroad cars in the center’s “backyard” serve as a highly visible reminder that the site once accommodated the largest railroad terminus in the state.) And in August 2013, DAWC finally opened its doors. “We’ve worked hard to spread the word that we are here, that we are open –year-round, in fact – and that we have interesting things going on,” says Moyna without a pause. “Though we’ve only been open a short while, we’re gaining momentum each month.”

And that’s a (very) good thing. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, the average American spends a whopping 93 percent of his or her life in buildings or vehicles – but innumerable studies have shown that spending time outdoors boosts creativity, improves physical fitness, and reduces stress. The takeaway? Turn off the TVs. Stash away those cell phones. Unplug the video games. Then throw on some shoes and head outside. “Kids who spend time in nature grow into adults that care about protecting it,” says Moyna. “Something as simple as holding a frog or planting a flower can help children form a magical – and lasting –connection with the land.”

In 2014, nearly 4,500 visitors streamed through the center’s doors, half hailing from far beyond the region. This year DAWC expects to attract even more, thanks in large part to a “something-for-everyone” schedule boasting more than 50 events. “Nature provides a way for families to bond,” says Moyna. “We want to ensure this is a place where learning is fun for all ages.”

Mission accomplished. A hawk watch drew hundreds of nature enthusiasts last fall, as did an Easter egg hunt and petting zoo last spring. Highlights this summer include a rollicking “Friday Night Live” Farmers Market (music included!) each Friday from May into October, an “epic” (Moyna’s word) Dino Day at the end of July, and a Tom Sawyer Adventures program that will take area youth out on the Mississippi River to fish, swim, bird watch, wade for mussels, and, yes, learn a bit about the history of the world-famous waterway. This kind of inventive, locale-based programming, Moyna emphasizes, could not succeed without the help of many partner organizations, including the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge, Big Springs Trout Hatchery, Effigy Mounds National Monument, Osborne Nature Center, La Riviere Park, and the Upper Iowa Audubon Society. “Our partners are the ones doing the ‘dirty’ work – forging into the Driftless Area’s back waters, exploring its deep ravines, and hiking its forests,” she says. “They are our eyes and ears in the area’s plant and animal communities.”

Photo courtesy North Iowa Times

And if DAWC has its way, it will soon have even more “partners” spreading the word about the wonders of this region – its deep caves and cold-water streams, temperature-regulating (algific talus) slopes and awe-inspiring bluffs, colorful plants and crafty animals. The DAWC Ambassadors Program, piloted last year and launched in January 2015, immerses participants in nature so they can learn about and promote the plant life, birds, fish, and mammals in their own backyard. “What if we could help people develop as much pride in and enthusiasm for their natural ecosystem as they have for their local sport teams?” muses Moyna. “What if they then shared that passion with those around them?”

Regardless of age, participants must attend three discovery/exploration activities at DAWC or partner sites; take part in three educational events at DAWC or local schools; and work with a skilled mentor to complete and present a special-interest project that positively impacts the Driftless Area. Upon completion of the program requirements, participants receive a badge and have the opportunity to take part in a special trip down one of the area’s major waterways. Might that waterway be the Mississippi? “That part’s a surprise,” says Moyna with a smile.

But folks interested in DAWC need not sign up for the Ambassadors Program nor wait for one of its many events to reap the benefits of visiting the center. It is open five days a week and offers plenty of opportunities to touch, feel, and explore both indoors and out. Inside, a muskrat and mink look to tussle in one of several taxidermy displays that line the building’s large glass windows. Four black shelves feature an array of rock formations – calcite, stromatoporoids, straight-shelled cephalopods, and others – endemic to the region. And a large wooden table in one corner showcases more than 20 preserved waterfowl, all poised as if ready for flight.

Just outside, a large observation deck extends into the wetland area to facilitate viewing of local flora and fauna, and eye-catching signs present important facts about the wetlands themselves. Were you aware that half of the world’s wetlands have disappeared since 1900 – or that development and conversion continue to pose huge threats to these areas? Did you know that wetlands are home to some of the richest biodiversity on the planet – or that they provide vital habitat for more than 40 percent of the entire world’s species, including killdeer, or charadrius vociferous?

That fun fact recalls the third question posed during the center’s native plant restoration event last April – namely, is killdeer prevalent in the Driftless Area? Yes, charadrius vociferous is a common species inhabiting a wide range of wetlands throughout North America, including those in Northeast Iowa. And the chance to spot one doing its thrilling “broken-wing act” is just one of many reasons to dive into this area called the Driftless. “There really is nowhere else like this place in the world,” says Moyna. “Once people begin to really understand all the Driftless Area has to offer, they also begin to really value it.”

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A Florida native, Sara Friedl-Putnam still remembers the awe she felt upon first viewing the spectacular limestone bluffs of the Driftless Area nearly two decades ago. She is thankful that organizations like DAWC are working hard to connect area residents with this special place and share its many natural wonders.

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Grab your shoes and head outside!

The Driftless Area Wetlands Centre – located at 509 U.S. 18, in Marquette, Iowa – is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 am to 4 pm. For more information, call (563) 873-3537 or visit www.driftlessareawetlandcentre.com